Domaines Schlumberger

Founded in 1810 by Nicolas Schlumberger, the eponymous Domaines Schlumberger is now run by the sixth and seventh generations of the family. With 130 hectares of land under vine, 70 of which are qualified as Grand Cru, this makes them not only the largest owner of vineyards in Alsace, but also the largest owner of Grand Cru sites in the region. Their Riesling Saering has long been a favourite of mine (especially with a fondue!) and I was very excited to be able to visit them this summer.

Upon arrival, my exceptional guide and Alsatian local, Isabelle, whisked us away on a 4x4 to take a look at some of their vineyards in Guebwiller. In terms of grape growing, Alsace has always been famous for its Vosges mountains which protect the region from too much rain but I was somewhat taken by surprise at how quickly we gained altitude and how sheer the drop was at certain points of our drive - but it was definitely worth it for the views once we reached the top!

From our vantage point, we learnt that Guebwiller is the only place in Alsace produces four Grands Crus. The vineyards range from 250 to 390 metres above sea level and has slopes that can be up to 50° in gradient in some places. Whilst this proves to be challenging in terms of working the land, it does mean that most things are carried out by hand which ensures a greater degree of care is taken in the vineyard to give truly exceptional wines.

Back at the winery, we toured the cellars before sitting down to taste a range of wines, several of which are rarely seen in the UK. As always, it's one thing reading about a producer; it's quite another tasting through the range with the people who make the wines.

Les Princes Abbés

Named after the Prince Abbots who looked after the vineyards from the 9th to the 18th century, this classic range uses fruit from young Grand Cru vineyards to give extremely approachable wines at a fraction of Grand Cru prices.

Riesling 2020

A wonderful introduction to the house style. Bright and expressive, with aromas of lime, green apple and white peach, it has the freshness and precision you'd hope for from Alsace Riesling without being overly austere. This is the sort of bottle that would happily accompany everything from seafood to a simple roast chicken.

Gewurztraminer 2020 (most commonly found without the 'ü' in Alsace, in case you were wondering!)

Gewurztraminer can sometimes divide opinion, but this struck a lovely balance. Lychee, rose petals and exotic spice were all there, yet everything remained fresh and surprisingly elegant. A brilliant reminder of why Alsace remains one of the benchmarks for the variety.

Pinot Gris 2019

Slightly richer in style, this offered ripe pear, baked apple and gentle spice alongside a lovely creamy texture. It felt wonderfully versatile and would be equally at home with roast pork, mushroom dishes or a hard Alpine cheese.

Pinot Blanc 2019

Perhaps the quiet achiever of the tasting. Delicate orchard fruit, citrus and subtle floral notes make this incredibly approachable, with enough freshness to keep reaching for another glass.

The Grand Crus

Domaines Schlumberger has four Grand Crus: Saering, Spiegel, Kesseler and Kitterlé. The unique production rules mean that vines must be at least 10 years old and that only the best grapes and juice are used to make a Grand Cru wine.

Riesling 'Saering' 2020

This remains one of my favourite wines from the estate. The combination of citrus, white flowers and remarkable minerality gives it a sense of purity that's difficult to describe until you've tasted it. It's vibrant, focused and incredibly food-friendly - it is my go-to for a cheese fondue!

Gewurztraminer 'Kessler' 2018

A more serious expression of Gewurztraminer, offering layers of candied citrus, ginger, rose petals and baking spice. Rich without becoming heavy, and showing just how well the variety can age.

Pinot Gris 'Kessler' 2014

One of the more gastronomic wines of the tasting. Fuller-bodied, with ripe stone fruit, smoke and subtle spice, yet balanced by an underlying freshness that prevented it ever feeling weighty.

Riesling 'Kessler' 2018

If Saering is all about purity and precision, Kessler brings a little more generosity to the glass. Riper citrus fruit, hints of white peach and a subtle smoky character give the wine real depth, while the bright acidity keeps everything beautifully balanced. It was another reminder of just how expressive Alsace Riesling can be.

Pinot Gris 'Kitterlé' 2014

Mature, complex and beautifully composed. Honeyed orchard fruit, dried apricot, toasted hazelnuts and gentle spice were all wrapped together by a wonderful freshness. This was a wine to savour rather than simply drink.

The Collections

These are Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) or Sélections de Grains Nobles (noble rot) wines that are only produced in the best years with grapes that solely come from Grands Cru sites.

Cuvée Éric Riesling Vendanges Tardives 2015

A wonderful demonstration of just how beautifully Riesling can age in Alsace. Layers of candied lemon, quince, apricot and blossom honey unfolded in the glass, yet the vibrant acidity kept everything wonderfully poised and elegant. Rich without ever feeling heavy, it was a fitting reminder that the finest late harvest wines are defined not simply by sweetness, but by balance.

Cuvée Christine Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 2018

A fitting finale to the tasting. Intensely aromatic, with apricot, mango, marmalade and honey notes, yet never cloying thanks to a vibrant line of acidity. This is a wine that truly comes into its own at the table - equally at home alongside a rich terrine of foie gras as it is with an apricot tart or a slice of tarte Tatin.

And just when I thought the tasting had come to an end, three more glasses appeared. Although Schlumberger has built its reputation on white wines, Isabelle was keen to show another side of the estate through two Pinot Noirs and a Rosé. They may not have been the main event, but they were a delightful reminder that Alsace is capable of far more than many people realise.

Driving away from Guebwiller, I couldn't help thinking how closely the wines reflected the landscape. Steep, dramatic and demanding to produce, yet elegant and remarkably precise in the glass. Visits like this are a reminder that great wine is shaped just as much by the people and places behind it as the grapes themselves - and they're exactly why I continue to seek out opportunities to visit producers whenever I can.